
We begin this post with a trivia question I’m betting almost no one reading this will be able to answer: Budapest is obviously Hungary’s largest city. Which one is second? (Game show music plays.) Answer: Debrecen.
“Doh!” she says as she slaps her head in self-Debrecation. “I knew it!”
As of 2024, the population of Budapest was over 2.1 million, whereas Debrecen had about 10% of that, or just over 217,000. That might seem like a big difference, but Bangkok in Thailand has pretty much everyone else beat with almost 30 times the population of its next largest city, Chonburi. Even though Budapest is the headline act, a true Hungarian adventure would also include the countryside, which has baths and lakes and Roman ruins and historic towns and a lot less English spoken. One of these days I need to explore the countryside of some very foreign country. But not this one, this was all about Budapest.
I admit that for years, I resisted the urge to visit Hungary just because of a fear of Buda pests. I heard a lot of bad things about how annoying they can be, as you can see in the picture above. Eventually, I decided if 2.1 million Hungarians can handle them, I could too. I also take my job as travel blogger seriously, so I’m always ready and willing to venture to exotic and dangerous locales just to satisfy the insatiable travel appetites of my readers. Plus, I had a secret weapon.
I came prepared by bringing a large can of anti-Buda pest spray, which consists of high percentages of Hedonism and Materialism particles. This helps scare them away because those molecules are like poison to their blood. Also, shouting, “Sok pénzt akarok, hogy bármit megtehessek és bármit megvehessek, amit csak akarok!” in Hungarian helps keep them away. In English that means: “I want lots of money so I can do anything and buy anything I want!” That’s very anti-Buddhist, and they shriek like banshees when they hear it, and sometimes even makes their heads explode if you say it with enough conviction.


As most geographically astute people are aware, the name Budapest comes from combining the names of two cities that spent generations staring at one another from either side of the Danube. So obviously there was Budape on one side and St on the other. Unfortunately the Budapolitans looked down on the Stimies, as they called them, mostly because the Stimies were too dumb to have even invented vowels. On the rare occasions they did shout at each other across the river, the Budapolitans usually thought they were being shouted at in anger due to all the flying spittle, when in fact the Stimies were just wanting to borrow a cup of sugar, or sgr in Stimian.
I couldn’t find a lot of history on St, probably because of the vowel thing. Sentences like this: “Ths s wht th St lngg wld lk lk” would be nearly incomprehensible to the average English speaker, so I guess no one even bothers.

The two cities fought countless wars over the years, until the Budapolitans finally won once and for all, and so they combined the two city names into one to form the name Budapest. Some of the intelligence issues persist due to interbreeding, however, as you can see in the above picture with the dumbest looking car I’ve ever seen. Good thing I was able to get a good shot of that because I was using panoramic mode and might have missed it otherwise.


I took these pictures from the plane only because I found it interesting that even as dusk had fallen, there were very few lights anywhere. Even the freeway was only illuminated by car lights. The reality is that Budapest stands alone in a sparsely populated, flat, agricultural region, without the dense city networks common in western Europe. Personally, I think it’s because Buda pests tend to swarm all over the lights.



That said, it did also appear to me that many of the avenues in Budapest were somewhat dimly lit as well. After getting off the airport bus (more on that later), I took to walking closely next to a group of revellers through some of the dimly lit streets, hoping that a sixty-something man dragging a suitcase would blend right in with a bunch of boisterous twenty-somethings.
I do have to say that Hungary endeared itself to me not long after I got off the plane, when I discovered that public transit is free for anyone over the age of “Öreg fing,” which translates directly to “old fart.” If you don’t believe me, do a Google Translate on that. After all, I spent several days in Hungary, so now I’m basically fluent.

Anyway, I clearly qualified for Öreg fing status, which admittedly was occasionally depressing when I’d walk up to the ticket taker and be waved right through without having to show them anything more than my face. Once in a while I’d even pull out a playing card to see if they were paying any attention, but nope- you look like an old fart is what their faces said, so just walk on through old-timer.
So I rode the bus in from the airport, feeling quite like Hungary and I had gotten off on the right foot, because despite effectively being told I was an old fart, it was to get something free after all, which is like manna from heaven for us old farts. Unfortunately, I got off the bus at the wrong stop, which ended up being the first of many mass transit missteps throughout my visit, so it foreshadowed more than I knew at the time. I ended up walking for half an hour to get to the hotel, which I was actually delighted to do just to get an initial feel of the city and find out how easy it was to get mugged. Which I didn’t because obviously I looked just like a native twenty-something reveller and blended right in.


Ahead of the trip, almost every person I told that I was going to Budapest asked me if I was going to the baths. I took to smelling my armpits each time I was asked, wondering if it was something about me. But anyway, here is the building that houses the baths. I’m really not much into saunas or hot baths, unless I get in them, but I figured I should take one for the Sasquatch, as it were. However, after reading up on the Széchenyi Thermal Bath and Swimming Pool, which really is inside that elaborate building, I decided to forgo the experience. Not only does it cost 36 euros just to get inside the place, but you have to bring your own (or buy in their overpriced store, naturally): towel, bathrobe, slippers, swimming cap, and blow up Donald Duck floatie. And there are no rentals, obviously, because no one wants a used Donald Duck floatie. Anyway, the idea of paying anywhere from 50 to 75 euros just to get into a big bathtub or pool just-a didn’t sauna very good-a to me (I’m also nearly fluent in Italian). I also read a lot of reviews on the baths, many of which cited interactions with rude staff as well as concerns about a lack of cleanliness. So I’m sorry, I passed on the experience. I guess I stink as a tour guide, perhaps literally.

I thought I could make amends by describing what it’s like to take a bath in a Hungarian hotel instead, but alas, the bastards want to force you into the overpriced, dirty public baths by not providing one in the hotel, offering only a shower. How rude! However, they did have the easiest-to-operate shower fixture I’ve ever seen. I mean, you just push one of two buttons to get the water flowing, labeled such that even a Stimie could decipher it, and the temperature is an easy-to-understand dial on the right. They even have a nice shelf for soap or perhaps your own shampoo, rubber ducky, or shower martini. Why aren’t they all like that? For some reason my ex-wife had the damndest time with hotel shower set-ups, which admittedly were sometimes incomprehensible. But she never let me mansplain them to her, so I’d sit in the room and listen for the inevitable screams and shrieks when she either got all the cold or all the hot or a hard spray to the face as soon as she turned on the water. I must admit I’d taken to looking forward to the experience, giggling like a little kid whenever it happened. Huh. Maybe that’s why we got divorced: “He giggled when I took a shower your honor!” The gavel bangs. “Guilty! Off with his head!”

The cleverly-named City Park, where the Széchenyi Bath was located, was within easy walking distance from the hotel. It’s quite a large park with lots of things to see, as you can tell by these easy-to-follow guideposts. It was a great first stop to make in Budapest, because inside the park featured the following: the Vajdahunyad Castle, the aforementioned Széchenyi thermal bath, the Budapest Zoo, the Municipal Circus, the Gundel Restaurant, the House of Music, and the Museum of Ethnography, which of course I already knew what that was, right after looking it up: the scientific description of peoples and cultures with their customs, habits, and mutual differences. Which I think is really stupid because anyone who is not a first world white male isn’t worth researching, at least according to too damn many Americans nowadays.


City Park (I just can’t get enough of that name), also includes an amusement park of sorts, as well as a balloon ride, both presumably being a little more active when the temperatures are above freezing.





I was excited to see the Vajdahunyad Castle, because usually when I hear the word “castle,” I get all weak in the knees, anticipating great views, impressive battlements, and the ghost of King Arthur riding forth to arthurize lots of agreements. However, Budapest pulled a fast one by calling a collection of buildings a castle. So Vajdahunyad Castle is actually just a diverse collection of multiple landmark buildings from different parts and time periods of the Kingdom of Hungary, featuring different architectural styles… and I don’t even care anymore because it wasn’t a proper castle. Humph.




The “castle” was built in 1896 as part of the Millennial Exhibition, which celebrated a thousand years of being Hungary. While it’s impressive and all, I couldn’t help but remain miffed at the misuse of the word “castle,” so I pouted the rest of the day and just snapped pictures without even looking at what it was taking, and then I’d kick at the snow in a fit of pique and puff out my bottom lip.



The skating rink cheered me up though. It’s so great to watch talented skaters doing spins, pirouettes, and somersaults, while really you’re only there to see the spectacular falls by the newbies so you can laugh at them. It’s also nice that they put a big Budapest sign there in case you couldn’t remember what city you were skating in.




Heroe’s Square is one of the major squares in Budapest, with monuments and statues featuring the Seven chieftains of the Magyars and other important Hungarian national leaders, as well as the Memorial Stone of Heroes. It also is home to the Palace of Art, the Museum of Fine Arts, and of course the Museum of Pretty Good Arts as well as the Museum of Arts That Only the Artists’ Mothers Could Love.


Once again they make sure you remember what city you’re in, but like a lot of these kinds of signs there’s usually a crowd of people waiting to get their picture taken in front of it. I tricked them all by taking a picture from behind and then just mirroring the photo on my computer. See, I’m not as dumb as I look. I am a bit stupid, of course, which is different.



I made good use of the free mass transit by just hopping on random buses to see where they’d take me. That’s the official version, but the truth is I’m really bad at mass transit so I’d take what I thought was the correct bus, and as soon as it starting moving I’d check my phone to see which direction I was headed. This meant that most of the time I got off on the next stop because I had gotten on the wrong bus. You’d think the odds would be 50/50, but initially I only successfully went the correct direction about a quarter of the time. Eventually that started to make sense to me because there are four main points on a compass, and sometimes I ended up heading west when I wanted to go south. Which also sometimes led to me getting off the bus, looking around, and thinking, “well, this is interesting here anyway.” Despite the free transit, I still walked 14 km (about 8-1/2 miles) the first day. I can’t hardly imagine how far I might’ve walked if the mass transit wasn’t free because I knew I could never figure out their ticket-dispensing machines. I actually can’t conceive of wandering about Budapest without taking advantage of the mass transit, even if you’re just a young pup (as everyone younger than me is) and have to figure out the complicated ticket-buying thing.



Budapest is about the same geographic size as Lisbon, although thankfully much flatter. I’d also say it has more interesting buildings and such to see over a wider area. That’s part of what put the mileage on my shoes (in Europe, is it kilometerage?). I’d get off the bus, look around, say “ooh,” and wander off gawking at various buildings, forgetting all about my original bus plans. It didn’t feel like there was any real hub or central spot for tourists, just an interesting cityscape no matter where you turned. And I got turned around a lot.

I did have to wonder whether this establishment was a combination restaurant and hospital, or perhaps a place for the undead to have life restored to them, or maybe Hungarians just play a lot of the game Life. It could also be that Life Cereal is really popular here, I know Mikey would like it, he likes everything. (For those not experienced in ’70s American commercials, that’s an old TV ad reference and is quite a hilarious one so go ahead and emit a knowing chuckle now.) Anyway, I didn’t go in because I didn’t want to be mistaken for a zombie and end up with a rectal probe or whatever they do to restore life to the undead.




Most major old cities are built next to a great river, because they are essential for growth, crops, toilets, squirt guns, and I guess sometimes water. It seems we’re supposed to just call this river the Danube, not the Danube River. Apparently, it is a little snooty and doesn’t want to be thought of as just another river. At one point it did lobby to be called the more formal Danielube, but that was a bridge too far for most Budapestlings, plus it sounded a little too much like a sex thing. Sometimes you just gotta stand up to vain bullies, but they did agree to leave off the “river.”
The Danube is the second-longest river in Europe, after the Volga in Russia, but no one cares about Russia anymore so that’s another reason why the Danube River just wants to be known as the Danube. After originating in Germany, it flows through Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Romania, Bulgaria, Moldova, and Ukraine, making it one of the most multilingual of rivers. Surprisingly, I didn’t see any tour boat offers to Ukraine.


One of my many random bus stops included seeing this bridge and the buildings on the other side. I got off the next stop in order to walk over the bridge (and watch the bus I was just on go zooming by in the same direction) in order to better see the Gellért Hill Cave Church, which is a Catholic church that’s particularly holy because it’s inside a hole. It was originally a natural cave used by the Monkees to practice their music. What? Oh, sorry, it was used by monks. You know, I’d never want to become a monk just so I could never be called a monk. They really need a better name.

So! I try to keep these entries down to a certain size so as not to disincentivize anyone living in a society dominated by two sentence texts with a lot of acronyms. So that means this is part one, and part two, The Hungar Returns, will be coming to a computer, tablet (or worst-case scenario because everything is too damn small), phone, near you! Stay tuned for the exciting finale!
(Scroll down to see previous entries.)













































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































